CARING FOR YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT FURNITURE
It goes without saying that outdoor furniture has to endure far harsher conditions than indoor furniture.
From our Arizona winter temperatures, which can get down-right cold to the dry heat and monsoon humidity in summer, outdoor furniture needs to be able to endure everything Mother Nature throws at it.
At CF, we use only the finest materials in the manufacturing of our products that will ensure your furniture enjoys a long and trouble-free life with just a little basic maintenance.
Note: The following remedies for cleaning fabrics and maintaining the furniture materials are in accordance with general cleaning industry procedures. We cannot guarantee results, and we assume no liability in connection with their use.
Care & Maintenance
One of the best ways to keep cushions looking good and to delay the need for deep cleaning is to properly maintain the fabric cushion cover. This can be accomplished by simply brushing off dirt before it becomes embedded, wiping up spills as soon as they occur or spot cleaning soon after stains occur. We advise furniture is covered or stored inside or storage bags in the “off” months if possible.
We recommend cleaning these specifically selected fabrics by CF with natural soap in lukewarm water. Cleaners such as Formula 409® or Simple Green® have also been used with success. Sponge briskly and rinse thoroughly with clean water to remove dirt. (Acrylic does not support mildew growth; however, mildew may grow on dirt and residue that has not been removed from the fabric.) Air dry.
Diluted chlorine bleach will not affect the coloration of the fiber and is, therefore, acceptable for stain removal. Chlorine, however, can eventually affect the strength of any fiber or cloth. We suggest a solution of one part bleach to two parts water. Thorough rinsing is essential.
Due to the large surface area of base cushions in particular, it is possible, under certain conditions, for "watermarks" to appear on the fabric. Watermarks are not ‘stains’ as such and can occur on almost any fabric under certain conditions. They may occur under conditions of uneven wetting and/or uneven drying. To avoid water marking it is important to dry cushions evenly, preferably in sunny, breezy conditions. If a watermark appears, use basic cleaning methods, then rinse the cushion thoroughly all over, using clean water, and then allow to dry as evenly and quickly as practicable. Ideally, this should be in the open air and in direct sunlight if possible, which will assist more rapid and even drying.
To preserve the longevity of fabrics/cushions, store indoors (or under-cover) during inclement weather.
When cleaning a cushion constructed of interior-grade foam, (for interior pieces only) professional cleaning is always recommended. Please note that interior-grade foam is never recommended for exterior installation.
Powder coating is a type of coating that is applied as a free-flowing, dry powder. The main difference between a conventional liquid paint and a powder coating is that the powder coating does not require a solvent to keep the binder and filler parts in a liquid suspension form. The coating is applied electrostatically and is then cured under heat to allow it to flow and form a "skin". The powder may be a thermoplastic or a thermoset polymer. It creates a hard finish that is tougher than conventional paint.
Care & Maintenance
Cleaning the finish of the furniture frame
When cleaning the furniture we suggest using a cleaner designed for fine finishes. We recommend using a mild soap and water solution, just as you would wash your car so not to strip off wax protection. Use a micro fiber towel, soft rag or sponge (the same thing that you would use on your car) to clean the frame.
Cleaning stubborn stains on the furniture frame
Cleaner Wax is very effective for removing stains which may not come off with ordinary cleaning. It is a more aggressive wax and should not be used as a general paste wax for protecting the finish.
Waxing the furniture frame
An occasional waxing with an automotive paste (Turtle Wax® for example) is great and will maintain the longevity of our finishes. In one step this product cleans, polishes, and protects the powder coated finish.
scratches and chips in the finish
Small scratches can often be removed using a rubbing compound or automotive paste wax.
Water spotting on the finish is likely a result of mineral and salt deposits in the water. The water spotting can also be a result of pollutants or salt in the rainwater. The problem can easily be remedied by using an automotive paste wax. This would promote "beading" of the water (ie: runoff the surface) without allowing surface dirt to dry on the finish. This will also make the furniture easier to clean when it becomes dirty.
Water spotting may be more pronounced on darker frame colors and due to the mineral contents in our Arizona water. Although the water spotting may re-occur after an extended period (just as an automobile gets dirty), the water spots can be removed easily by hosing off the furniture.
During the outdoor months, wood components of the furniture should be periodically scrubbed down with a non-abrasive detergent using a bristle brush and plenty of water.
Cushions should not remain on the wood surfaces for extended periods of time. As wood tannins rise to the surface, they may stain the upholstery. Frequent wiping of the wood surfaces will minimize this.
In some climates, extreme temperature changes can cause the wood grain to rise slightly. To maintain desired texture, lightly rub with fine sandpaper or steel wool.
Care & Maintenance
No finish is permanent with wood, but the beauty of it is worth the effort. To keep the original finish to last as long as it can, here are the two things you should always practice - Keep it as dry as possible and Keep it as clean as possible. For cleaning, we recommend using a mild detergent, or soap and water as you would the cushions - Murphy’s Oil Soap® is what we recommend.
WHEN IT’S TIME TO REFINISH
Maintaining or refinishing should not be scary, but if it is, please contact us and we can refinish for you for a nominal charge, or find a great “handy person” to do it for you.
If you’re ready, most clear finishes, both tongue or teak oils or the polyurethane are applied with a brush, working in the direction of the grain of the wood. If the wood grain comes up on oil finishes, take a light sanding pad to knock it down and re-oil.
With polyurethane finishes, after it dries, sand lightly. Then remove all the sanding dust and apply a second coat. For added durability, a third coat can be applied. Most projects will be ready for normal use in 24 hours. Be sure to follow the label directions for the product you are using.
Stir the clear finish well before and occasionally during use - Be sure to mix in all material that may have settled to the bottom of the can. Never shake a can of clear finish as this creates bubbles and will be in the liquid when it’s applied and will cause bubbles in the dried finish.
Always apply in thin coats. Thick coats take longer to dry and are more likely to be uneven and attract dust while drying.
“Tip off” each section - To minimize brush marks and bubbles, “tip off” each section of your project at a 45-degree angle and lightly run the bristles over the entire length of the wood.
Test before you sand - To be certain that the finish is ready to be sanded, sand a small, inconspicuous area first. If the finish starts to “ball up”, STOP. It is not dry enough to be sanded. Wait at least 30 minutes then test again.
COMPOSITE WOODS & HPL
The only maintenance required for HPL is regular wiping with clean cloth and warm, diluted, neutral detergent to remove surface spillages.